Nigel Slater's miso recipes (2024)

A bowl of miso soup rights the wrongs. Lift the bowl to your lips, inhale briefly, take a sip of the deeplysavoury liquor, and suddenlyall is good with the world once more.It's the hot broth, of course – hearty, fruity, virtually beefyin its intensity, perfectly clearwhen still then intriguingly cloudy once stirred,but there's moreto it thanthat. The feel of thesmooth lacquer bowl in your hands, hearing the occasional whisper thatemanatesfrom the tight,steam-freckled lid, and thesmell, that is forme the essence ofJapan, bring with them a serenepleasure. Thenthere's thesteam thatrises fromthe surface and thegently swirling patterns of the miso inthe clear stockas you sip.

In Japan, whether you are eatinggrilled eel on sticky rice fromalacquer box, a piece of blistering aubergine tempura hauledout of bubbling oil or chickenhearts cookedon skewers set over hot coals, you can almost guarantee that you will be offered atiny lacquer bowl of miso soup. When there, it is an essential part of my breakfast, along with rice and salty,crunchy pickles. Made fromcrushed soy beans and rice or wheat, left to ferment and mature, miso's variations in colour, from creamy white to a deepest mahogany,will generally signify howsalty it is. The white (shiro) miso,the least salty, is a good place formiso virgins to start.

Miso is often the first thing I make on return from a trip abroad.There is almost always atubof it in the fridge. Sealed and chilled, it will keep for weeks. Youjuststir a couple of tablespoons of it into hot stock – Itend to use chicken or vegetable rather than the traditional seaweed and bonito dashi. Introduce a handful of cookednoodles and you have lunch. Add shredded greens, such as pak choior spinach, and shavings of grilled chicken or tiny shreds ofrawbeef and you have a light yet satisfying dinner.

The pastes are easy to deal with and readily available and will last several weeks in the fridge. Neither will Iturn my nose up at theinstantmiso soups, of which mostwholefood stores have adazzling range. It is just a case ofboiling akettle. But ahomemade version givesyou the option to alter the intensity by adding as much ofthe paste as you wish and, of course,of choosing whether it's alightmiso dayor adark one. The pastemakes a fine marinade for grilled chicken, too, let downtoaspreadable slush with equal amounts of sugar or honey, sake andmirin. Sweet, savoury and strangely peaceful.

Grilled miso chicken

Get the heat right. If you cook thechicken too near the elements or at too high a temperature, your marinade will burn. The chances are that it will darken considerably anyway and char around the edges – adetail that only adds to thecharacter, but you don't want itto burn and becomebitter, so don'tforget to keepchecking as it cooks, moving it away from the elements as necessary.

Ionce saw this cooked on a bed of sliced cucumber. The cucumber stopped the paste burning.A good idea if you have acucumber to get rid of. Serve with steamed greens.

Serves 2
For the sauce:
white miso 4 tbsp
mirin 4 tbsp
honey 4 tbsp

chicken breasts 2
pak choi 200g

Put the miso in a mixing bowl, stir in the mirin, then add the honey and mixwell. Score each of the chicken breasts three or four times, cutting through the skin and about halfway through the flesh. Place the breasts inthe miso marinade, roll over to coatthoroughly, then leave in a cool place for an hour or so.

Put an overhead grill on low to medium. Line a baking sheet or grill tray with tin foil, add a couple of tablespoons of water to it, then place the marinaded chicken breasts on the foil with plenty of the marinade sticking to them. Grillthe breasts for approximately 10 minutes, turning once or twiceas they brown.Inevitably some of the marinade will burn, hence the importance of the foil.

Lift the chicken from its foil andserve it with grilled or steamed pakchoi.

Miso soup, noodles and cabbage

Nigel Slater's miso recipes (1)

At home I don't use lacquer bowls formy soup. Beautiful as they are, theywould lose their sheen after arideor two in the dishwasher – suchare the practicalities of life.

Serves 2, generously
For the soup:
stock 1 litre, vegetable, chicken or dashi
brown miso (mugi) 5 tbsp
sesame oil 2 tsp
dark soy sauce 1 tbsp

cabbage 75g, very finely shredded
noodles 100g, boiled and drained
lime juice of 1
chives 10g
coriander a handful

Bring the stock to the boil in adeep saucepan. Turn down the heat andstir in the miso paste, the sesameoiland soy sauce. Taste, adding moremiso paste for adeeperflavour if you wish.

Pile the cabbage into serving bowls,add the cooked noodles, thenpour over the miso stock. Finishthe soup with lime juice, finelysnipped chives and coriander leaves.

Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater

Nigel Slater's miso recipes (2024)

FAQs

Why not boil miso? ›

Boiling miso can harm the probiotic bacteria. At temperatures above 115 degrees Fahrenheit these delicate bacteria are destroyed. We recommend adding miso paste to soups just prior to serving.

How to make miso soup without killing the probiotics? ›

Avoid high heat when cooking with it, as it will kill off the good bacteria. When making miso soup, turn off the heat and dissolve (using a muddler like this will help avoid clumps).

What is the ratio of red miso to water? ›

A general rule of thumb is to use about 1 tablespoon per cup (U.S. measure, 236.5ml) or 1/4 l (250ml) but if you have a very salty red miso for example, you may need less. So when you are trying out a new miso, always add less than you think you need.

How to jazz up instant miso soup? ›

Simply chop up some of your favorite veggies and add them to the soup. Popular vegetables include mushrooms, green onions thinly sliced, spinach, tofu, bean curd, wakame seaweed, nori seaweed, onions, daikon radish, and carrots.

Who should avoid miso? ›

Miso paste is made using soybeans. Some people are allergic to soy protein. You should avoid miso soup if you have a soy allergy. Most miso paste—the main ingredient in miso soup—is gluten free because the koji used is made with rice.

Does boiling miso ruin it? ›

AVOID BOILING MISO

The number one mistake! The aromatic qualities of miso – as well as some of the nutritional benefits – are damaged when boiled. This is why miso is traditionally stirred in at the final stage of cooking, either over a gentle simmer or heat with turned off.

Which color miso is healthiest? ›

In terms of health benefits, the darker and more strongly flavored miso varieties tend to be the most nutritious. Here are a few of the healthiest types of miso: Red Miso: Made with a higher percentage of soybeans and fermented for a longer period of time, red miso has a rich, complex flavor and a dark red-brown color.

What is the secret ingredient in miso paste? ›

The secret ingredient: Aspergillus oryzae, a grain-loving fungus that under the microscope looks like a delicate flower on stem. Fermented with soybeans, grain, and, salt, it becomes miso paste, a staple of Japanese cuisine.

Why do I feel better after having miso soup? ›

Improves digestion: Because miso is high in probiotics, it helps the body maintain healthy bacteria levels. This bacteria contributes to digestive health, reducing gas, diarrhea, bloating and constipation.

Can I just put miso in hot water? ›

*STIR MISO to preserve the beneficial bacteria – stir the miso paste into your cup of hot water instead of pouring boiling water over the miso as high heat can destroy the healthful bacteria; this simple technique will help ensure you get maximum “nu*tritional bang for your bite.” MISO is fermented soybean paste.

Can you have too much miso paste? ›

Miso is generally safe for most people; however, if you follow a low-salt (sodium) diet, you may wish to limit your intake because miso has high levels. Soybeans are considered to be goitrogenic. This means if you have a thyroid issue you may be advised to minimise your intake.

Can you add too much miso? ›

Made from soybeans fermented with bacteria and fungi and preserved using a large quantity of salt, miso is naturally packed with both umami and salty flavors. But when you add too much miso to a dish, what you're going to notice, predominantly, is excessive saltiness.

What can I use instead of dashi in miso soup? ›

The base of any great miso soup is its liquid component. In lieu of dashi, a homemade vegetable broth can be used. Not only does this serve as a dashi substitute, but it also adds a layer of flavor complexity while keeping the dish plant-based and accessible to those on a vegetarian or vegan diet.

What is the spongy stuff in miso soup? ›

Tofu is also made from soybeans and becomes the perfect protein for miso soup. Buy fresh silken tofu from the produce section for making miso soup. Firm tofu becomes spongy in the soup and won't quickly absorb the soup's delicate flavors the way silken will.

Is there live bacteria in miso? ›

The fermentation process involved in the production of miso promotes levels of beneficial bacteria, known as probiotics. These bacteria are thought to help a range of health issues, including digestion and gut health.

Can you drink miso paste with hot water? ›

Many people tell us that they have miso soup every morning for breakfast. By this they mean that they put miso in hot water and drink like a tea. It actually took us quite a while to try this out but once we did we were amazed. Delicious and savory this is a great way to start your day.

Do you have to heat miso? ›

To preserve the probiotic qualities of miso, you must avoid boiling it; instead, whisk in the miso just before serving, while the soup is still warm. Eric Kim's delicious recipe for miso soup is easy to make vegan. You could use a simple kombu dashi for the base, of course, or tweak Eric's recipe a bit.

References

Top Articles
Latest Posts
Article information

Author: Aracelis Kilback

Last Updated:

Views: 5696

Rating: 4.3 / 5 (44 voted)

Reviews: 83% of readers found this page helpful

Author information

Name: Aracelis Kilback

Birthday: 1994-11-22

Address: Apt. 895 30151 Green Plain, Lake Mariela, RI 98141

Phone: +5992291857476

Job: Legal Officer

Hobby: LARPing, role-playing games, Slacklining, Reading, Inline skating, Brazilian jiu-jitsu, Dance

Introduction: My name is Aracelis Kilback, I am a nice, gentle, agreeable, joyous, attractive, combative, gifted person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.