Where do the hipster mixologists ofTokyo,Mexico CityandBrooklyntake their inspiration?
If not from the Exposition Universelle des Vins et Spiritueux’free collection of digitized vintage co*cktail recipe books, perhaps they should start.
An initiative of theMuseum of Wine and Spiritson the Ile de Bendor in Southeastern France, the collection is a boon to anyone with an interest in co*cktail culture …ditto design, illustration, evolving social mores…
1928’sCheerio, a Book of Punches and co*cktailswas written by Charles, formerly ofDelmonico’s, touted in the introductory note as “one who has served drinks to Princes, Magnates and Senators of many nations”. No doubt discretion prevented him from publishing his surname.
Charles apparently abided by the theory that it’s five o’clock somewhere, with drinks geared to various times of day, from the moment you “stagger out of bed, groggy, grouchy and cross-tempered” (try aCharleston Braceror aBrandy Port Nog) to the midnight hour when “insomnia, bad dreams, disillusionment and despair” call for such remedies as aCholera co*cktail or an Egg Whiskey Fizz.
As noted on the cover, there’s a section devoted tofavorite recipes of celebrities. These bigwigs’ names will likely mean nothing to you nearly one hundred years later, but their first person reminiscences bring them roaring back to theatrical, boozy life.
Here’s celebratedvaudevillian Trixie Friganza:
In that nautical city of Venice, I first made the acquaintance of a remarkably delicious drink known as ‘Port and Starboard’. Pour one half part Grenadine or raspberry syrup in a cordial glass. Then on top of this pour one half portion of Creme de Menthe slowly so that the ingredients will not mix. Dear old Venice.
Indeed.
Presumably any co*cktail recipe in the EUVS’s vast collection could be adapted as a mocktail, but Charles gives a deliberate nod to Prohibition with a section on alcohol-free (and extremely easy to prepare) Temperance Drinks.
Don’t expect aShirley Temple— thetriple threat child starwas but an infant whenCheeriowas published. Expand your options with aSaratoga Cooleror anOggle Noggleinstead.
Before attempting to recite the poem that opens 1949’sBottoms Up: A Guide to Pleasant Drinking, you may want to slam a couple ofDepth Bombs co*cktails or a Merry Widow co*cktail No. 1.
In an abstemious condition, there’s no way this ditty can be made to scan…or rhyme:
The Advent of the co*cktail
A lonely, abandoned jigger of gin
Sat on a table top. “Alas”, cried he,
“Who will join me?” And he tried a friendly grin.
Came a pretty youth, Mam’selle Vermouth,
Who was bored with just being winey.
Said she to Sir Gin: “You’d be ever so nice
With Olive and Ice. And so they were Martini.
The co*cktail recipes are solid, throughout, however, as one might expect from a book that doubled as an ad for sponsor First Avenue Wine and Liquor Corporation — “for Liquor…Quicker.”
We’ve yet to try anything from the “wines in cookery” section — but suspect that sturdy fare likePotato Soup and Baked Beanscould help sop up some of the alcohol, even if contains some hair of the dog…
Shaking in the 60’sauthor Eddie Clark’sprevious titles includeShaking with Eddie, Shake Again with Eddieand 1954’sPractical Bar Management.
Clark, who served as head bartender at London’s Savoy Hotel, Berkeley Hotel and Albany Club,gets in the swinging 60s spirit, by dedicating this work to “all imbibing lovers.”
William S. McCall’s decidedly boozy illustrations of elephants, anthropomorphized co*cktail glasses and scantily clad ladies contribute to the festive atmosphere, though you probably won’t be surprise to learn that some of them have not aged well.
Shaking in the 60’sboasts dozens of straight forward co*cktail recipes (theBeatniktheBunny Hugand theMonkey Hugall featurePernod), a surprisingly serious-mindedsection on wine, and a couple of pages devoted tonon-alcoholic drinks.
If your child turns up their nose at Clark’s Remain Sober, serve ‘em anAlbermarle puss*cat.
Clark also draws on his professional expertise to help home bartenders get a grip onmeasurement conversions,supply lists, andtoasts.
So confident is he in his ability to help readers throw a truly memorable party, he includes a dishy party log, that probably should be kept under lock and key after it’s been filled out. We imagine it would pair well with theMorning Mashie, another Pernod-based concoction dedicated to “all those entering the hangover class.”
Delve into the Exposition Universelle des Vins et Spiritueux’free collection of digitized vintage co*cktail recipe booksfrom the 1820s through the 1960shere.
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Ayun Hallidayis an author, illustrator, theater maker and Chief Primatologist ofthe East Village Inkyzine. Follow her@AyunHalliday.